Liquid Gold

What makes a good olive oil?

What defines extra virgin, the highest grade? According to Joeli Yaguda, co-owner of Califorina-based olive oil company Pasolivo, “The oil needs to be free of defects and balanced in taste, with low acidity and processing that does not include chemicals or heat.”

Positive attributes are fruitiness, bitterness and pungency. Color is not a sign of quality, but rather of the olives’ ripeness (less ripe olives produce greener oil).

Yaguda advises using the best olive oil when cooking at home but having multiple kinds on hand. “It’s just like wine,” she says. “You wouldn’t serve chardonnay with everything.”

Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better with age. Use it within 18 months and store it in a cool, dark place.

DINE

EXTRA VIRGIN
NEW YORK
Olive oil is the star at this New York West Village spot, which prides itself on its deliciously inventive Mediterranean cuisine. The highlight, of course, is the different varieties of extra virgin oils from around the world that are served each night. www.extravirginrestaurant.com 212-691-9359

SHOP

THE OLIVE PRESS CLUB
If you’re an olive oil fanatic, this is the best club you’ll ever join. Sign up (sans membership fees) and receive two bottles of one-of-a-kind blends, organic oils and limited-production artisan oils four times a year (January, April, July and October). Members are also entitled to 15 percent off other olive oils and vinegars from the catalog.

And if you’re in the neighborhood, stop in to The Olive Press Tasting Room and Gift Shop in Sonoma, Calif., 44 miles north of San Francisco. 800-965-4839; www.theolivepress.com

CREATE

PASOLIVO ORANGES
Pasolivo is an award-winning extra virgin olive oil brand. This recipe, which highlights the oil, was first prepared in a tiny restaurant in Rome.

INGREDIENTS: 4-5 oranges, pinch of sugar, freshly ground black pepper, Pasolivo Extra Virgin Olive Oil, loaf of fresh bread

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the oranges into slices about 1/2-inch thick and arrange on a large plate. With a fork, press the orange slices to release some of the juice. Sprinkle pinch of sugar over the oranges. Generously drizzle with Pasolivo so that the oranges are covered in olive oil. Pepper the oranges. Cut the bread, and dip it onto the orange slices. You’ll taste the oil, with a hint of fresh citrus.