Breaking the (Dress) Code

How you dress for work is more important than you may think. Here’s a how-to guide for outfitting yourself for the office.

By Margot Carmichael Lester • Illustrations by Juliette Borda

There’s no denying it.

People—from passersby on the street to co-workers you see everyday—judge you by what you’re wearing. While the opinions of strangers aren’t really significant, the views of those you face in the workplace definitely matter.

“In the business world, we’re analyzed on how we perform and how we look,” says Brian Boye, fashion director for Men’s Health magazine. “There are a lot of ways people get it wrong at work, from ill-fitting clothing to inappropriate styles.”

The first office attire “don’t” is to dress for the job you have. “You should be reaching higher,” Boye says. “Dress for the job you want. It’s a subtle visual cue that reminds others of your self-worth and attention to detail.”

With that in mind, this how-to-dress guide will help you manage not only your office wardrobe, but also your career.

COLOR ME BAD

First, color. Research shows that red connotes power, while pink is calming and black equals strength. “That doesn’t mean you want to burst into a meeting looking like a fire engine,” Boye says, “but subtle accents like a red tie or scarf can help clarify who’s boss if your goal is to take charge.”

Blue is universally appealing. “Studies show the darker the blue we wear, the more seriously we’re taken,” Boye says. “So skip the Easter egg shades if you have a point to make.”

Expecting conflict? There’s evidence that pastel colors calm aggressive behavior, so if you need to moderate between two groups, Boye suggests wearing light blue or yellow.

And don’t overdo patterns, says Peter Belisi, founder and president of Belisi Fashions, a Florida-based luxury accessories brand. “If you wear a pinstriped suit, stick to a solid shirt or thin pinstripes with a subtle pattern or solid tie,” he says. “If you have a solid suit or sport coat, that’s the time to get aggressive with your tie pattern.”

CASUAL OR CASUALTY?

Corporate casual, designed to engender a more relaxed, informal workplace, has probably caused more stress than anything else, since nobody really knows what it means. That’s why Sandy Dumont, image consultant and director of the Norfolk, Va.-based Impression Strategies Institute, calls it “corporate casualty.”

“It’s an oxymoron,” Dumont says. “You are either dressed for business or for casual activities. It almost always gets out of hand, and that’s when they call me in. Even if you don’t ‘meet the public,’ the way you look will affect the attitude and performance of those around you.”

To depart somewhat from traditional business wear, men can try dark trousers or high-end jeans in dark blue or black, paired with dressy loafers and a French blue business shirt. “A white shirt is very formal and should not be worn without a tie,” Dumont says. “Add a blazer or tie if weather permits.”

Women, on the other hand, have more options. “Keep it simple and neat,” says Denise Gordon, the U.S. director of human resources for global public relations firm Hill & Knowlton. “I recommend staying away from denim and heavy cotton materials, which still leaves lots of fabrics to choose from. Pants and skirts with sweater sets, shirts or blouses are simple and perfect. Dresses are also great. Take your cue from your surroundings.”

MEETING EXPECTATIONS

While an important meeting is the perfect opportunity to make a great impression, it’s “not the time to try a new outfit or experiment with color,” says Jim Wetzel, co-owner of Jake, a luxury fashion retailer with three locations in Chicago. “I would identify what color you feel great in: black, navy, gray. Choose the suit you feel best in and dress in a monochromatic scheme. This always conveys a strong message and strong point of view without being tricky. For women, I think the biggest mistake is when they dress like one of the boys: an oversized suit and button-down shirt. This states, ‘I don’t really have an opinion.’”

Dumont advocates a suited skirt in a dark color, or a black skirt with a jacket in a bold color such as red, magenta or royal blue. “High-fashion styles have more power than the ubiquitous blazer jacket,” she says. “Complete your look with power accessories like bold chunky hoops and an omega necklace or bold brooch.”

TAKING THE OFFICE OUTSIDE

Resist the temptation to get too funky when heading to an office party, counsels Brooklyn-based Rachel Weingarten, president of GTK Marketing Group and author of Career and Corporate Cool. “While work parties seem like a time to let go, you should remember that you’ll be working with these people for years to come,” she says.

She says women can’t go wrong in a black dress that is cut well and not too revealing. And for the gentlemen? Wetzel likes a black suit for day, and adding a colorful satin tie for the party.

When traveling for business, you may be on your own time, but it’s on the company dime. And that means dressing the part. “You have no idea who you might run into in the executive lounge or on the flight,” Weingarten says. “Wear pieces that are easy to layer, easy to pack and mostly crease-proof.”

Regardless of the situation, others may think we are what we wear. “Understand your audience,” Gordon says. “What you don’t want to do is have your colleagues discount your work because your appearance is the topic of discussion.”

Following these basic rules will help you avoid being the topic of unflattering conversation— and ensure that you present a professional appearance without looking like a drone, a dweeb or a don’t.

HOW DO I LOOK?

Is it appropriate?

If your company is corporate, opt for tailored clothing like suits, trousers and skirts paired with solid colors or neat patterns. Bold prints and revealing clothing may get you noticed, but for all the wrong reasons.

Every office and situation is different, so there aren’t cookie-cutter rules for your work wardrobe style. But there are some universal considerations that will keep you from committing a sartorial gaffe, says Brian Boye, fashion director for Men’s Health magazine:

Does it fit well?

Dress clothing looks cheap when it’s too big or too small. Too tight and you look tarty; too loose and you look like you just don’t care. Most things don’t fit perfectly off the rack, so tailor critical areas: sleeves, pant or skirt lengths and the body of suit coats.

Are the details right?

Invest in a classic watch on a stainless steel bracelet or leather strap. Neutral leather dress shoes or heels are a good bet. Chunky, unpolished shoes don’t look good on anyone, anywhere. And nothing kills a good look faster than a cheap nylon computer bag. Splurge on a functional canvas or leather bag. It will protect your valuables and send a message that you’re polished.

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