Explore Nevada`s dazzling desert playground.

By Jeanette Hurt / Illustrations by Tim Tomkinson

Sunlight dances on the azure waters, the deep blue running right into the jagged granite boulders of a desert mountainscape. The natural majesty evokes a feeling of isolation, of being a million miles from civilization.

But the reality is that the slots of Las Vegas flash and clink only minutes away from the natural beauty that encompasses the Lake Mead Recreation Area. Though it’s easy to get stuck on the Strip, there’s a whole lot more to Las Vegas than the gambling, dining and shows that most visitors associate with Sin City. In fact, there’s a whole world of adventure and family-friendly activities just a short drive away from the gaming epicenter of Las Vegas.

Before the Hoover Dam was built, the Colorado River raged and flash floods were a dangerous possibility. Just 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas, the dam was a massive undertaking at the time, requiring more than 21,000 workers and five million barrels of concrete. Built right in the middle of the Great Depression, the dam was the largest ever constructed when it opened in 1935. Today, although it’s no longer the world’s largest, it remains an American icon. While other dams may rival its size, none feature its unique Art Deco design details, nor do they boast its dramatic story.

“When the dam was built, the engineers of the time were just guessing,” says Richard Stewart, an area guide. “A dam like this had never been built before, so they were estimating. They made some great estimates, and when modern engineers came to visit in the 1990s, they said they wouldn’t have done anything differently.”

Though it’s a trip just to drive over the dam, it’s worth taking the tour. After a short film, an elevator operator (who explains that he is a “dam good” elevator operator) takes you down 21 stories inside the dam. The ride is so quick, patrons’ ears often pop. Once at the bottom, there is a walk through gigantic caverns that house generators and control water flow. Then, visitors are guided back up to surface level, where they can explore exhibits and view the dam from an observation deck. A new, expanded hard-hat tour takes visitors into the maintenance shaft to look out from the ventilation windows onto Lake Mead.

A VISIT to Lake Mead Recreation Area can easily be combined with a trip to Hoover Dam. The largest man-made lake on the continent, Lake Mead offers swimming, fishing, boating and even scuba diving (which allows a visit to the old Mormon town of St. Thomas, covered by water since 1938). There are also plenty of picnic sites and scenic overlooks that present simpler pleasures.

While Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam are about a 30 minutes drive from Las Vegas, closer natural beauty beckons in Red Rock Canyon. Just 15 miles west of downtown Las Vegas, this rugged sandstone palisade offers hiking and rock climbing galore. Located smack dab in the middle of the Spring Mountains, Red Rock Canyon is a geological wonderland. Though the oldest rock is usually found at the bottom of mountain ranges, the opposite is true here; millions of years ago, shifts in the earth’s surface thrust the older limestone rock over the newer sandstone, creating awe-inspiring vistas that will make even the most seasoned hikers catch their breath. Exhibits in the visitors’ center and outdoor placards at hiking drop-offs further explain this geological phenomenon.

Several stopping-off points and picnic areas dot the 13-mile driving loop through the park. Especially worth exploring are the Calico Hills, the Sandstone Quarry and the Willow Springs Picnic Area. The Calico Hills provide great starting points to explore some of the gorgeous crimson rock formations, while the Sandstone Quarry reveals the remains of a limestone harvesting operation and one of the best views of Turtle-head Peak. Willow Springs Picnic Area, in particular, offers a glimpse into the region’s original Native American inhabitants through petroglyphs they left behind. But be sure to get exact directions at the visitors’ center, since paths to these treasures are not well marked.

HISTORICAL treasures can also be discovered at the Neon Museum, which is less than 20 minutes from the city center. The Neon Museum is in the making—its actual, physical structure is slated for completion at the end of 2008.

The collection was started several decades ago by a local sign company, Yesco, which used to lease signs to local gaming halls. When the restaurants or casinos wanted a new sign or went out of business, the signs were returned to Yesco, where they were stored in a lot next to the company’s headquarters. The yard grew, and it became known as the “Neon Boneyard.” The Boneyard’s masterpieces have changed hands several times before evolving into the museum.

Tours of the Boneyard are offered twice daily, and a walk through its graveled trail explores the glittery history of Vegas’ past century. The collection boasts the original Stardust sign, Aladdin’s lamp and a giant silver slipper. It’s sort of like a visit to the land of the giants, because the signs are, in some cases, several stories tall, and almost every visitor finds a favorite. Kids especially love a gigantic skull from the old Treasure Island, which can even be seen on Google Earth.

A DIFFERENT kind of history is told at Springs Preserve, also 20 minutes from the city center. Opened in June 2007, the preserve tells the geological, archaeological and cultural history of Las Vegas through interactive exhibits, video games and even a mini-desert zoo. Located on the region’s original water source, it marks the birthplace of Las Vegas, where Native American settlers gathered. But this innovative discovery center isn’t content to retell stories from the past. Its platinum-rated LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) rating certifies that its buildings are both energy-efficient and green. Reclaimed timber from a historic old railroad bridge, straw bale construction (it is the largest commercial straw bale construction project in the country) and solar panels are just some of its greener features. The preserve, in its buildings, exhibits and programs, promotes conservation, even offering a green design resource center, botanical g arden and hiking trails. Next year, the Nevada State Museum will open a new building on the Springs Preserve campus. “One of the really big goals is to educate people about conservation and environmental awareness,” says Dawn Barraclough, Springs Preserve’s spokesperson.

So, stepping off the Strip and into a Las Vegas day trip can be just as thrilling as winning in a high-stakes game of blackjack or poker—and the kids can come along.

DAY TRIP TIPS

Hoover Dam and Lake Mead:
Crowds love this engineering attraction, so it’s best to arrive early—before 9:30 a.m. The dam has a snack bar—featuring a “dam” large hotdog—but culinary wonders do not abound. It’s best to grab a fast-food bite in nearby Boulder City or, for more refined fare, stop by Montelago Village Resort (www.montelagovillage.com), which features more than a half a dozen gourmet (and kid-friendly) options, as well as shopping and gondola rides. 702-494-2517; www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam or www.nps.gov/lame

Red Rock Canyon:
Trails are marked as easy, moderate or strenuous, but even the easy trails can be a bit more challenging than advertised, especially if there are little ones in tow. Some of the rocks and gravel along the trails are slippery, so it’s a good idea to look before you step. Do bring bottled water, because it can get very hot. There aren’t any snack bars, so either pack a picnic lunch or plan on stopping at restaurants in nearby Summerlin. Agave (702-214-3500; www.agavelasvegas.com), an authentic yet modern Mexican restaurant located in a local strip mall, comes highly recommended. www.redrockcanyonlv.org

Neon Museum Boneyard:
Reservations are required to tour the Boneyard, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead. Because the actual museum building is under construction, headquarters are located in the Reed Whipple building, 821 Las Vegas Blvd. North. It is a part of the city’s cultural corridor, so it’s easy to combine a visit of the Boneyard with the Lied Discovery Children’s Museum (www.ldcm.org), Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Park (parks.nv.gov/olvmf.htm ) or the Las Vegas Natural History Museum (www.lvnhm.org). 702-387-6366; www.neonmuseum.org

Springs Preserve:
Two years of construction and nearly a decade of forethought went into this $250 million attraction, so plan on spending at least half a day, if not the whole day, to take in all the exhibits. Plenty of restaurants are within a short drive, and there’s dining onsite, as well. 702-822-7700; www.springspreserve.org