High-end chocolatiers deliver decadent drinks that will satisfy any sweet tooth.
By Felisa Billet
What can be better than a cup of hot cocoa on a cold winter day?
A mug of hot chocolate. And make that the haute kind.
Gone are the days of brown powder and dehydrated marshmallows. With varietal dark chocolate going mainstream, Americans’ perception of this iconic beverage is changing. As the market for premium eating and baking chocolate has expand-ed, so has the taste for real hot chocolate.
“People don’t want plain [hot chocolate] anymore,” says Danielle Sarna, a spokesperson for Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man, in New York City. “They want change. They are becoming daring and trying different things.”
Not to be confused with cocoa powder mixed with milk, hot chocolate is made by melting solid bars of chocolate, preferably a dark variety that contains a high percentage of cacao, with cream or milk.
“Americans are traveling more and being exposed to how other cultures drink hot chocolate,” says Fred Thompson, author of Hot Chocolate: 50 Heavenly Cups of Comfort. Hot chocolate, as it’s made in Europe, is traditionally a thick beverage of un-adorned melted chocolate. Warmed milk, whipped cream or mascarpone cheese is served on the side for those who want a creamier finish.
Chocolate is unique in that it pairs well with an infinite number of flavors. One of the Latin American versions, for example, combines cinnamon, chilies and other spices. And from Chinese five-spice to key limes, the sky is the limit in terms of hot chocolate and its companions.
Author Michael Turback predicts that as Americans continue discovering real hot chocolate, even more exciting new varieties with exotic flavors will appear on restaurant menus.
Turback himself fell in love with hot chocolate when he experienced the intensity, complexity and indulgence of Chocolate de Jardín, a thick Venezuelan version steeped with jas-mine, at Zafra in Hoboken, N.J.
“Like most Americans, I grew up drinking cocoa, which is a completely different beverage than hot chocolate,” says Turback, whose book Hot Chocolate showcases new-age combos like lavender-pistachio, sake-wasabi and ginger-caramel. “Hot chocolate is not just something to drink after ice-skating or in the football stands in the middle of December. It’s a great everyday drink.”
Here is the low-down on where
you can find that perfect,
steaming cup of the real thing.
Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates (www.elbowchocolates.com; 816-842-1300) in Kansas City offers 11 exotic renditions. Aromatic versions feature coconut milk and curry, Chinese five-spice and a Venezuelan-inspired spice blend. Other varieties include dark chocolate infused with peanut butter or peppermint.
Hot chocolate comes to life in a Willy Wonkaesque fashion at Manhattan’s Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man (www.maxbrenner.com; 212-388-0030). The “suckao” (from “suck cacao”) is served in a special utensil where patrons use a tea light to melt chocolate and milk at the table, then drink the concentrated shot through a metal straw. In the handleless hug mug, melted varietal chocolate is served with add-ons such as orange zest, crunchy waffle balls and toffee caramel. Iced hot chocolate drinks, or “choctails,” are served in Alice in Wonderland-inspired tall glasses.
The Rotunda (215-523-8000) of The Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia offers a made-to-order, customized hot chocolate service where patrons become part of the experience. Choose from dark, milk and white chocolate, and pick accompaniments from an assortment that includes fresh fruit, marshmallows, chopped candy and liqueurs. Drinks are served in signature cobalt blue mugs.
Leonidas Chocolate Café (www.myleonidas.com; 626-577-7121), with locations in Pasadena and Santa Monica, Calif., combines Belgian chocolate with steamed milk to create a rich base for four varieties: raspberry rapture, orange velvet, peppermint delight and Mexican cocoa.
‘Wichcraft (www.wichcraftnyc.com; 866-942-4272) offers six handcrafted varieties made from a combination of milk, cream and chocolate (dark and milk) infused with bay leaf, orange peels, peanut butter, malted powder, or even ancho and chipotle chilies, in addition to a double-thick European variety. There are eight locations throughout New York City, one in San Francisco and one in Las Vegas.
Señor Fred (www.senorfred.com; 818-789-3200) in Sherman Oaks, Calif., outside L.A., offers an up-dated Mexican version made with whole milk, heavy cream, bittersweet chocolate, cinnamon, masa meal and brown sugar. Each mug is served with cinnamon-sugar churros for dipping.
Zafra (www.zafrakitchens.com; 201-610-9801)—of the aforementioned Chocolate de Jardín—is a Cuban restaurant that serves four Latin-inspired versions that are perfect endings to every meal. The Venezuelan is spiced with anise and cinnamon, the Chococcino adds espresso, and the Chocolate Mariclara is thickened with dulce de leche.
So drink up and satiate your sweet tooth with chocolate. ■
PREPARE YOUR OWN
This artistic rendition from Christopher Elbow of Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolate in Kansas City features an aromatic mixture of Asian spices. The combination of dark chocolate infused with cinnamon, anise, fennel, cloves and Szechuan peppers transform this classic beverage into a modern delight.
FIVE-SPICE HOT CHOCOLATE
Makes 4 servings
1 star anise
½ teaspoon fennel seed
1 cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves
10 Szechuan peppercorns
4 cups whole milk
16 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, chopped ground cinnamon for serving
In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the anise, fennel, cinnamon, cloves, peppers and milk, and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for 5 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the spices and return the milk to the saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the chopped chocolate until melted completely. Bring to a slow simmer and whisk for 30 seconds. Pour the hot chocolate into warm mugs and top with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Serve immediately.
