Beyond Barbecue
KANSAS CITY CUISINE BREAKS OUT WITH FABULOUS FOUR-STAR OPTIONS.
BY MARY BLOCH
You can toss out the “cowtown” label for Kansas City when it comes to dining. While barbecue is still world class, an energetic crop of innovative chefs is bringing culinary adventure to the heartland.
THE CROSSROADS DISTRICT
Immediately south of the downtown loop, the Crossroads District is being transformed into a vibrant locale, with restoration projects on every block.
Originally built in 1885 as a school, Webster House has been graciously restored and is now home to an elegant antique store and exquisite restaurant. While the clientele is predominantly female, chef Charles D’Ablaing doesn’t let the men go home hungry. Selections include plump diver scallops, seared Muscovy duck, an artistic salad and a divine goat cheese soufflé. The restaurant, which is open for lunch only, is composed of several intimate rooms, each with a distinct décor and ambiance.
Housed in a former railroad warehouse, Lidia’s represents chef and entrepreneur Lidia Bastianich’s first foray outside of New York. Acclaimed architect David Rockwell’s design for this striking Italian restaurant includes vaulted wood ceilings and Dale Chihuly-styled chandeliers. Try the pasta tasting trio, which features tangy Caesar salad and three freshly cooked pasta selections.
When historic Union Station was restored in 1999, Pierpont’s opened in the stunning space as an upscale steak and seafood restaurant. The wood paneling, soaring ceilings and original molding invoke images of the restaurant’s muse, financier
J. P. Morgan, sitting in a booth consummating a railroad deal. The sleek private dining rooms sit amid the wine cellars that are ideal for business meetings.
An impressive architectural undertaking transformed a 1915 hotel into 1924 Main, where both the décor and food exude style and sophistication. The eclectic offerings change monthly, and are available à la carte or as two-, three-, four- and five-course tasting menus.
MIDTOWN
The area offers an eclectic mix of independent restaurants and is a haven for those seeking a break from convention. Room 39 is cozy any time of day, with exposed ductwork and brick walls dotted with paintings for sale by local artists. In the morning, it operates as a neighborhood coffeehouse serving imaginative egg dishes and smooth cappuccinos. In the evening, the mood softens with tablecloths and candlelight. Chef Howard Hanna relies on local ingredients for his creative salads and clever accompaniments to the lovely comfort food.
Unlike many restaurants, where the vegetarian entrée is an afterthought, Room 39’s selections are always enticing and richly textured. In a nod to the Internet era, the changing daily menus are posted on its Web site.
One can’t discuss Midtown dining without mentioning The American Restaurant, an institution in the Crown Center development that has been in operation for more than 30 years. With floor-to-ceiling windows and a splendid view of downtown, it is widely regarded as the loveliest restaurant in town and the perfect venue for a special occasion. The food is equally breathtaking and artfully presented. Chef Celina Tio was recently named the 2007 best Midwest chef by the James Beard Foundation. The lunch and dinner menu change daily and can be accessed on the Web site.
Speaking of James Beard, nominee Colby Garrelts and his wife, Megan—a James Beard Award-winning pastry chef—offer cutting-edge, contemporary cuisine at Bluestem. Choose a three-, five-, seven- or 12-course menu in the sophisticated dining room, or try the cozy lounge for upscale cocktails. Standouts include Waygu beef tartar and an ounce of caviar with a bottomless glass of vodka.
For a change from the trendy American bistro, consider the pad thai at Thai Place. It has five locations in the metro area, including its newest outpost south of the airport on Interstate 29. The restaurants offer well-executed Thai dishes with a choice of “heat” in an upscale setting.
JOHNSON COUNTY
Residential and retail development is flourishing in this southern part of the metro area. Don’t be fooled by the undistinguished strip center locations—the food and ambiance at these restaurants is significantly more inspired than their exteriors suggest.
Three years ago, 40 Sardines opened under the guidance of James Beard Award winners Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, who quickly succeeded in elevating the Kansas City restaurant scene to a new level. The sleek and energetic space is eye catching, and its global cuisine charms diners, often converting them into passionate regulars. Don’t miss the seared tuna over a sushi rice cake with wasabi butter and pickled plum-soy sauce—the melding of flavors and textures is a true gastronomic treat.
Cloaked in dark red like the currant after which it is named, Cassis is a Parisian bistro making patrons imagine that, like Toto, they’re “not in Kansas anymore.” Pair one of 75 wines by the glass with one of its standout dishes—a warm tomato bursting with melted boursin cheese or a silky tuna carpaccio.
KANSAS CITY RESTAURANT GUIDE
THE CROSSROADS DISTRICT
Webster House
1644 Wyandotte
St. 816-221-4713
www.websterhousekc.com
Lidia’s Kansas City
101 W. 22nd St.
816-221-3722
www.lidiasitaly.com
Pierpont’s
30 West Pershing Road
816-221-5111
www.herefordhouse.com
1924 Main
1924 Main St.
816-472-1924
www.1924main.com
JOHNSON COUNTY
40 Sardines
11942 Roe Ave.
913-451-1040
www.40sardines.com
Cassis
4821 W. 117th St.
913-383-1000
www.cassiskc.com
MIDTOWN
Room 39
1719 West 39th St.
816-753-3939
www.rm39.com
The American Restaurant
200 East 25th St.
816-545-8001
www.theamericankc.com
Bluestem
900 Westport Road
816-561-1101
www.bluestemkc.com
Thai Place
NW 64th St.
www.kcthaiplace.com
Of course, if these culinary gems don’t satisfy your cravings,
THERE’S ALWAYS WORLD-CLASS BARBECUE:
LC’S:
5800 Blue Parkway
816-923-4484
www.lcsbbq.com
Ideal for a sandwich on the way to a Royals or Chiefs game.
OKLAHOMA JOE’S:
3002 W. 47th Ave.
913-722-3366
www.oklahomajoesbbq.com
Uniquely situated inside of a working gas station.
JAKE’S SMOKEHOUSE:
8314 Wornall Road
816-444-1517
Best sweet potato fries in town.
GATES:
Multiple KC locations
www.gatesbbq.com
Look for its BBQ sauce in stores.
ARTHUR BRYANT’S:
Multiple KC locations
www.arthurbryantsbbq.com
Frequented by celebrities since the 1920s.
FIORELLA’S JACK STACK:
Multiple KC locations
www.jackstackbbq.com
Large catering presence and ships nationwide.
