8 of the country’s top mixologists share what’s on their plates in terms of what’s in their cups and offer a guide to their favorite lairs. By Tony Ware Just as many farmers have seen increased consumer interest in highly varied and locally grown produce, many bartenders have seen an interest in diverse and custom-made libations. In response, some barkeeps have incorporated unique ingredients and artisanal techniques in an attempt to elevate the art of the cocktail. In refined establishments nationwide, “mixologists” are wielding droppers of essential oils instead of pre-flavored vodkas. In fact, there’s so much innovative fare and flair to imbibe, it’s enough to leave one shaken and stirred.

Dale DeGroff

Mixology Consultant—New York “King Cocktail,” as he is rightly known, Dale DeGroff acted as beverage manager at New York’s Rainbow Room from 1987 to 1999. DeGroff’s gourmet approach to cocktails involved retooling and sometimes recreating the classics to find which ingredients in the concoction pair with which foods, as well as how to make for better marriages of flavors. An example of a good pairing would be how the citrus notes of Angostura bitters in a gin or vodka sour stand up to curry powder in, well, curry. DeGroff has chronicled much of his experience in The Craft of the Cocktail and is president of The Museum of the American Cocktail. DeGroff’s signature Whiskey Smash— featuring American whiskey/bourbon/rye, Orange Curacao, plus muddled lemon and mint—has been a great success at establishments such as Soho’s Pegu Club (www.peguclub.com). That Old World officers’ club, along with NYC’s Art Deco Flatiron Lounge (www.flatironlounge.com), is DeGroff’s go-to.

Gina Chersevani

Bar Chef—Rasika, Washington, D.C. Found behind the bar at zesty Rasika (rasikarestaurant.com) in Washington, D.C.’s Penn Quarter, Gina Chersevani infuses cocktails with Indian spices, organic fruit and her sense of ingenuity. Chersevani hopes to create cocktails that satisfy both “The sweet-toothed individual as well as those that want something savory.” One way she bridges influences is her signature use of the very American Woodford Reserve bourbon with fresh ingredients such as quince and lady apples or Italian cherries, ginger and soda. For something further celebrating the restaurant’s name, meaning “flavors” in Sanskrit, Chersevani slow roasts Granny Smith apples, cooks down ale, sugar, ginger, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, then places it all with Dry Sack. Though she nods to New York with a Pegu Club cocktail given a twist with her own handcrafted bitters, Chersevani looks no further than over the Potomac at Restaurant Eve (www.restauranteve.com) in Old Town Alexandria when desiring to quaff something wonderful.

Tony Abou-Ganim

Founder, the Modern Mixologist, Beverage Consultant—Las Vegas Growing up in the bar business, Tony Abou-Ganim began mixing classics in the ’80s at the Brass Rail Bar in Port Huron, Mich. under the watchful eye of cousin Helen David. Never settling for less than the best quality ingredients, Abou-Ganim set about letting the flavors shine as he “mastered the Zen of sweet-and-sour.” His experience culminated in designing drinks for Katana (katanarobata.com) in West Hollywood and co-directing a cocktail “finishing school” with Dale DeGroff. He helped open Harry Denton’s Starlight Room (harrydenton.com) in San Francisco and was tapped for Las Vegas’ Bellagio. Part of Abou-Ganim’s joy has been rediscovering almost-forgotten recipes as well as finding new ways to use classic purees. Abou-Ganim believes in attention to detail—from glassware to garnish to uniform ice—and finds similar care at Las Vegas’ Nora’s (norascuisine. com), Miami’s Nobu (noburestaurants. com) and New York’s Pegu Club.

Todd Thrasher

General Manager, Sommelier— Restaurant Eve, Alexandria, Va. A Virginia native recognized for his patience and palate when cross-referencing wine and crossbreeding spirits, this liquid savant’s Edenesque Cocktails strives for and achieves poignancy without prickle. “Use the freshest seasonal ingredients in the chef’s kitchen; use intense culinary creativity; and never let them taste the alcohol,” he says. A Thrasher signature features peach poached in Riesling, champagne vinegar-pickled peaches, sugar and peach vodka paired with a foie gras torchon. Thrasher is also partner/resident alchemist at neighboring PX (703-299-8384), where behind an unmarked alley door, can be found beguiling Prohibition-era recipes given homemade flips with house-brewed tonic, hand-squeezed juices, etc. The intimate concept is cousin to the unmarked/reservations-only Milk & Honey in New York (www.mlkhny. com). Thrasher puts in a vote for the Pegu Club as his fave drink destination.

Gregory Best

Mixologist—Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta Beginning his bar training in Las Vegas during the late ’90s, Gregory Best trained under Francesco LaFranconi, author of The Anatomy of the Cocktail. Having embraced the classic cocktail resurgence, Best moved to Atlanta where he eventually landed at Restaurant Eugene (www.restauranteugene.com). Best considers the match ideal, as owners Linton and Gina Hopkins share his emphasis on “farm-fresh sustainable ingredients, boutique and small-crafted wines, beers and spirits, and a dedication to the art of fine service.” Best considers his philosophy to be simple: use only a few ingredients so as not to cloud or clutter the taste of the spirits, and never use cheap product. As a person furthering house-made tinctures, Best puts in another vote for the Pegu Club as the “mecca for drink enthusiasts,” where “extreme precision and attention to detail” produce drinks that are “both delicious and consistent.”

Jacques Bezuidenhout

Beverage Consultant—San Francisco First working in restaurants in South Africa, then catching the spirits spirit full-on in London, Bezuidenhout began to truly bloom in 1998 when he came to San Francisco. First helping The Irish Bank compile a top-flight Scotch/whiskey list, Bezuidenhout then crafted his offerings while at the Starlight Room (www.harrydenton.com). He has since gone on to cultivate signatures that toy with the body and acidity of wine. Some of these have been placed at Central 214 (www.central214.com) in Dallas and Washington, D.C.’s boutique wine bar Urbana (www.hotelpalomar-dc.com). Bezuidenhout has recently started a consulting company called Spirits & Cocktail Sangoma (the Zulu word for “witch doctor”), and he pulls the occasional shift back at the Starlight, where he celebrates agave nectar, elderberry syrup and all things seasonal. He enjoys a tipple at Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant (www.tommystequila.com) when in the Bay Area, or Flatiron, Milk & Honey, Employees Only (www.employeesonlynyc.com) and Pegu Club when in New York.

Scott Beattie

Bar Manager—Cyrus Restaurant, Healdsburg, Calif. Scott Beattie believes that a spirit’s ingredients and terroir can create a profound experience. Thus, Beattie chooses to use Bay Area spirits—such as Hangar One vodkas and Charbay rum— in signature cocktails. Additionally, Beattie is very focused, as is Cyrus Restaurant (www.cyrusrestaurant.com), on fresh, exotic fruits and the cyclic Northern California produce—such as Fall’s Meyer Lemons and Sonoma Apple Cider. Also featured are an array of “all season nostalgia” offerings, which update classics—such as the Manhattan with vanilla bean and citrus peel-infused 12-Year Weller Bourbon and Amarena cherries. When out on the town, Beattie migrates to Absinthe Brasserie & Bar (www.absinthe.com) or Bourbon & Branch (www.bourbonandbranch.com). On the East Coast, Beattie visits Pegu, Milk & Honey, and Employees Only.

Audrey Saunders

Co-Owner and Beverage Director— Pegu Club, New York Perhaps you’ve caught word of this venue. In terms of liquid art, the year-and-a-half-old Pegu Club’s cup runneth over with accolades. Audrey Saunders honed her taste for details in New York under Dale DeGroff and eventually helped relaunch the Carlyle’s legendary Bemelmans Bar. “As my friend Gary Regan [of mixology hub ardentspirits. com] says, ‘You need to perfect the roux before you create your sauce.’” Examples of Saunders’ sauce include the Old Cuban—which uses aged rum, bitters and champagne in a year-round mojito tribute “served up,” and the Little Italy, a variant on the Manhattan using Cynar (artichoke liqueur) or Amaro (Italian bitters) to alter the flavor profile. When stepping out for a nip, Saunders favors Milk & Honey, Little Branch (212-929-4360) and the Flatiron Lounge. ■